Holli Yeoh

Honeybee Cardigan

It’s a glorious, sunny day out there and the beautiful pink cherry trees are in bloom and lining my favourite streets in Vancouver. It’s the perfect day for some lacy spring knitting.

Knit Simple Spring/Summer 2013, photo by Paul Amato for LVARepresents.com

The 2013 Spring issue of Knit Simple hit the newsstands earlier this month and the first featured pattern (a two-page spread, no less) is mine! It’s a sweet, feminine cardigan with 3/4 length sleeves and lacy honeybees flying in formation on the fronts and back and down the sleeves.

Slight waist shaping and inset sleeves contribute to the shapely look.

No edging at the hems and cuffs required and it’s finished off with a simple, narrow garter stitch edging for the neck and front bands.

If you work in a chilly, air-conditioned office, the pattern could be easily adapted for full-length sleeves.

Knit Simple Spring/Summer 2013, photo by Paul Amato for LVARepresents.com

Knit Simple Magazine Spring/Summer 2013
Lace Detail Cardigan (#01) p. 24-25
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large (shown in size Small)
Finished Measurements:
Bust (closed) 36 (38, 40, 42)”/91.5 (96.5, 101.5, 106.5) cm
Length 22 (22½, 23, 23½)”/56 (57, 58.5, 59.5) cm
Upper arm 11½ (12½, 13, 13½)”/29 (32, 33, 34) cm
Yarn: 9 (10, 11, 12) balls of Schulana/Skacel Collection Merino Cotton 135 in white (#001)
Needles: 3.25 and 3.5 mm (US 3 and 4)

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Raised Increases

  • Raised Increase
  • Lifted Increase
  • Invisible Increase

My favourite increase is the most invisible and goes by many names. It looks great when stacked to create a taper, like in a sleeve.

It also has many abbreviations, none of which are standard and they all mean the same thing:

  • RRI and LRI (right-slanting raised increase and left-slanting raised increase)
  • RSI and LSI (right-slanting increase and left-slanting increase)
  • RLI and LLI (right lifted increase and left lifted increase)
  • LRinc and LLinc (leaning-right increase and leaning-left increase)
  • KRL and KLL (knit right loop and knit left loop)

How to:

Right-slanting raised increase

Work to location for increase.The RRI is worked into the right side of the next column of sts on the needle.

Rotate knitting so you can see the back and locate the purl bump directly below the next st on the needle.

Insert right-hand needle downwards into that purl bump from the top of the stitch.

Wrap your working yarn around the needle and knit the stitch. Don’t let the next stitch slip off the left-hand needle—increase completed.

Work next stitch on needle in the normal fashion.

Left-slanting raised increase

Work to location for increase. The LRI is worked into the left side of the column of sts just worked.

Locate the bar between the stitches on each needle.

Line up the left-hand needle so it’s parallel to and just under that bar.

Follow that bar, running the needle towards the right-hand needle and you’ll find your left-hand needle slipping into the stitch two rows below the stitch just worked on the needle. (Note: this is the same row as the RRI was worked but it might feel like there’s an extra row. Compare the photos and notice that it’s the same row in the striping pattern.)

Now that the lifted stitch is on the left-hand needle, knit into the back of the stitch—1 st increased.

When working paired increases at each end of the row (say, for a sleeve), generally they are worked at least one stitch in from the edge. I prefer having two stitches between my edge and the increase, remembering that one stitch at each end is used in the seam.

Did you like this tutorial? Click here for more.

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Twist Collective Spring 2013

The Spring/Summer 2013 issue of Twist Collective went live over the weekend and I’m thrilled to be included in the issue.

My design, Peking is featured in the Bonjour, Paris! story. Imagine, my sweater traveled to Paris for the photo shoot! If only I could have accompanied it.

Peking is a loose, roomy t-shirt with a shorter hemline in the front angled to a longer one in the back. Did you know this is called a “mullet” hemline?

You start by knitting two panels of lace. Once blocked, stitches are picked up along the sides of the lace panels and the rest of the garment is worked from the centre panel out towards the sleeves.

A few rows of linen stitch are worked along the sides of the neckline to keep it from stretching,

Inspiration for the design came from a top I saw on a mannequin in the window of an unlikely little shop in Vancouver. It was the panel of perforated fabric that caught my eye. I loved the drape, but somehow that shape called out for some beautiful lace to highlight it.  After percolating for a while in my subconscious it overcame its humble origins and became this lovely, oh-so-feminine garment.

Publication images used with permission © Twist Collective, Aimee Gille, Kate Gilbert

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March was a busy month

March was very busy. Lots of yarn arrived at my house only to leave again in short order knitted into garments for upcoming publications.

I sent out six or seven pieces throughout the month. Now I’m recuperating!

Actually, no rest yet. I have one more piece pending that’s proved to be a little more challenging than anticipated. The lovely authors have kindly agreed to let me rework the project so it’s the best it can be. What luxury to have a deadline extended!

Added to all the calculating, writing and knitting, my computer chose this time to die. You know it’s never as easy as buying a new computer and being up and going instantly. There were problems with my backups. In the grand scheme of things the problems were minimal, but they took my valuable time to solve.

We also went out of town for a week for Spring Break. We vacationed on Vancouver Island this year visiting Bear Mountain near Victoria and then on to Tofino and Ucluelet ending our stay at one of our favourite resorts, Black Rock Resort.

Even with relaxing visits to the beach and rain forest as well as some great meals and snacks I managed to knit much of the time.

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Vogue Knitting Spring Issue

 

Vogue Knitting Spring/Summer 2013, photo by Rose Callahan

I’ve finally graced the pages of Vogue Knitting. It was a personal goal of mine and mission accomplished! Not only that, I’ve been watching the stats in Ravelry and the design has been well received. That’s always gratifying.

This Classic Lace Cardigan is has an all-over lace pattern with a slight variation of some garter ridges on the cuffs and hem.

The three-quarter sleeves and drapey quality of the milk yarn (yes, it’s an 80% milk / 20% cotton blend) make for a very feminine look.

I love how the English tailored shoulders turned out. They are actually easier to work than conventional shoulders because the front shoulder is straight with no shaping. The shaping only occurs on the back so you only have to fiddle with shaping in lace on one piece.

The Vogue Knitting team even put together a descriptive video of the sweater while being modeled. It’s so nice to see the design on a person and to see it from all angles before embarking on the project.

 

Vogue Knitting Spring/Summer 2013
Classic Lace Cardigan (#04) p. 53
Finished Measurements:
Bust (closed) 33 (37, 41, 45)”/84 (94, 104, 114) cm
Length 20¼ (20¾, 21¼, 21¾)”/51.5 (52.5, 54, 55) cm
Upper arm 10½ (11½, 13½, 14½)”/26.5 (29, 34, 37) cm
Yarn: 5 (6, 6, 7) hands of Kolláge Yarns Creamy Flamé (milk/cotton) in aqua marine (#7112)
Needles: 2.75 and 3.25 mm (US 2 and 3)

 

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Hole-Mending Tutorial

My favourite cashmere wrap has had a hole in it for some time. When I wear it I try to arrange the folds so the hole doesn’t show, but it usually ends up front and centre. I’ve considered needle felting a little shape over the hole like these polka dots or this heart, but those ideas didn’t really suit me for this repair. I like the simplicity of the wrap and wanted something invisible. The trick was to find some fibre that matches the colour perfectly … or was it?

 

How to patch a hole in your knits invisibly

Christine O’Neill of Fantiny Felt & Fibre showed me how I could mend my hole as invisibly as possible. I didn’t even have to try to match the colour or fibre because she suggested I use the pills on my wrap. Brilliant!

First up, harvest some fibre from your garment. If there aren’t any pills then pinch off the loose fibres along the edges or seams of the garment. You don’t need very much.

Centre the hole over a foam block with the wrong side showing and place the little wad of fibre on top of the hole. Start jabbing with the needle. Christine recommended that I use a fine star (40 gauge) needle and she sells them too.

Flip the fabric over and do more needle felting from the front.

Work from the back and then the front a couple more times.

Once the hole has closed up and the wad of fibre is secure, I did a little fine tuning from the front by poking with the needle along the grooves between columns of stitches.

My first foray into both needle felting and mending was very successful. Perhaps not completely invisible, but much less noticeable than the hole was or than a little heart would be. The little heart is very sweet though so I’m sure I can find the perfect garment for it.

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One Idea—Three Ways

I’m eagerly waiting for my contributer’s copy of Classic Elite Shawls, Wraps & Scarves: 20 Ideas * 3 Ways to arrive. I’ve seen a bit of buzz about it on the internet and I can’t wait to get my hands on it. In the meantime, I’ve been looking at the promotional spread (see below) and listening to an interview with Betsy Perry of Classic Elite about the book.

The premise of the book is to present three variations for each design. It could be a recurring motif or stitch pattern in a shawl, cowl and stole, for instance. Or it could be variations on a stitch pattern in three very different weights of yarn from lacy to bulky, such as my contribution to the book.

My scarves are entitled Shades of Gray and I used Classic Elite’s Mountaintop alpaca yarns for all three in varying natural shades: Blackthorn (bulky), Vail (fingering) and Vista (dk).

It was lovely knitting with the alpaca. I only wish I could have kept them for their soft, cozy warmth around my neck this winter!

I had fun playing the with fern stitch pattern when designing these scarves. The medium grey scarf uses the full stitch pattern. The lacy one uses 1 1/2 repeats and looks like fish swimming back and forth like an Escher tessellated design. The bulky one uses only 1/2 of the repeat for chunky triangular motifs.

While the stitch pattern is not identical on the front and back, the other side is also attractive. I see that the bulky one is photographed in the book with the reverse side showing.

Classic Elite Shawls, Wraps and Scarves: 20 Ideas * 3 Ways
Editor: Classic Elite
Publisher: Sixth&Spring Books
60 projects by 17 different designers.

Shades of Gray by Holli Yeoh from Classic Elite Shawls, Wraps & Scarves, published by Sixth&Spring Books. Photography by Jack Deutsch and text copyright © 2012 by Sixth&Spring Books. Photographs used by permission.

 

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Assessing

About two years ago I decided to dedicate a year to submitting designs for books and magazines. I wanted to experience the process and grow as a designer. That first year quietly expanded and became two years. And really, I needed to see the fruits of my efforts. Some calls for submission are sent out so far in advance of the publication date that at the end of the first year, I only saw two of the designs in print. Almost two years later I have a better sense of that first year.

It was quite a year with eight designs accepted for four publications (click on the pictures for more info about each design). I feel good about the results. They seem pretty good for someone who just entered the submission game.

 

What I discovered is:

  • I’m not going to run out of ideas. That’s always been a secret fear of mine.
  • I can be phenomenally productive when I have a deadline.
  • I’m not good with self-imposed deadlines.
  • I feel like a zombie after a deadline has been met. It takes a few weeks to get back up and running again.
  • I can postpone the feeling of lethargy and creative exhaustion by having another deadline lined up.
  • There’s little time for my own projects if I’m constantly submitting designs.

One more thing I’ve discovered is that I enjoy submitting designs, most especially when they are accepted and I get to knit them up. My experimental year, which turned into two years has convinced me to carry on with this kind of work. I’m loving it.

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Lady Emmeline

The new issue of Petite Purls is up and it includes one of my latest patterns: Lady Emmeline. The rich, visual texture of the two slipped-stitch patterns paired with the royal colourway really felt like fabrics that a French courtesan might wear.

I recently read a book where the characters were introduced to King Louis XIV at Versailles. In addition to the excessive meals and opulent costumes, the gardens were also described in detail. I could just imagine a little girl of the aristocracy exploring the gardens in her brocade outfit.

The colourwork is achieved through simple slipped-stitch patterns. Only one colour per row is used and there’s no stranding. Easy peasy! It’s the subtleties of the two different slipped-stitch patterns I adore. The three-in-one pattern looks like little Fleurs-de-Lis when knit bottom up.

Yet the lattice stitch pattern looked so much better to me when worked top down. It creates little curved shapes that look a bit like fish scales. This interesting quandary had me devise a way to get the most out of each stitch pattern.

I used a provisional cast on at the high waist and worked the bodice up to the shoulders. Then the provisional cast on was removed and the live stitches were picked up with everything ready to work down to the hem. In an effort to eliminate shaping problems on the side seams of the a-line skirt section it’s all worked in one piece and the shaping is achieved through working with progressively larger needles. I love this approach to shaping.

The yarn is Tough Love Sock by SweetGeorgia in Goldmine and Amethyst. I was wonderfully lucky to have Felicia’s input in the colour selection.

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A Knitter’s Haul

I received some wonderful gifts over the holiday season. As my birthday is three days before Christmas I received a double dose of knitterly gifts from my loved ones.

The Jewellery

My husband gave me this beautiful sterling silver shawl pin by Plover Designs. The husband and wife team have a great little Etsy shop where they sell their designs in copper and recycled aluminum as well as sterling silver. Shawl pins, stitch markers and Portuguese knitting pins are the knit themed offerings among the more conventional earrings, bracelets and necklaces.

The Accessories

My Mum was on a transatlantic cruise recently with a stop in Iceland where she picked up these beautiful wrist warmers. It seems fitting that these were a gift from my Mum as they were created by the mother/daughter team that makes up Gallery Hjá Tótu. The wrist warmers are made from felted wool with an embroidered and beaded design on them that signifies protection (vernd in Icelandic).

The Stocking Stuffers

I must confess, I treated myself to a skein of Rain City Knits fingering superwash in the name of Santa. I fell in love with the colourway (Heliotrope/Purple/Steel Grey) which was especially created for Vancouver’s newest yarn shop, Wet Coast Wools.

Every knitter needs a little notepad of knitterly paper. The one Santa gave me has a lovely stranded design with deer, trees and snowflakes. If you want to find a notepad for yourself like this one, you just may be able to still find them at Michael’s.

The Books
I love books. I especially love knitting books and my family knows this. My husband, sisters-in-law, nieces and mother were especailly generous. Here’s the run down on what I was able to add to my knitting library this season:

 

What wonderful knitterly gifts did you get for Christmas? I would love to hear about them! Maybe I can add them to my wish list for next year.

 

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Happy Holidays

Wishing everyone a holiday season that is lovely and smooth. We’re relaxing and enjoying our family time together.

These little needle felted snowmen put a smile on our faces as Devan and I made them for Christmas gifts this year.

The idea for these little guys came from an image I found on Pinterest. The knitting pattern can be found on Ravelry. Since we were needle felting instead of knitting, I just winged it for the bodies. Devan made the carrot noses and we used tiny seed beads for the eyes. The scarves are needle felted in place.

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Christmas Knitting

Freelance deadlines were my priority well into December so I got quite a late start on my Christmas knitting. First to be finished will be Kabouter by Woolly Wormhead for Devan. I want him to  have a chance to wear it before the big day.

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